Let’s go over into their performance metrics and overall value to assist you in making an informed decision.

Specifications Overview

Starting with NVIDIA, the RTX 3070 is based on the GA104-300 GPU (5888 CUDA Cores) designed using the Ampere architecture. It hosts a nominal 8GB of GDDR6 memory over a 256-bit interface, netting us 448GB/s of effective bandwidth.

AMD’s Radeon RX 6700 XT uses the Navi22 GPU with 2560 FP32 units built using RDNA2, Team Red’s creme de la creme architecture. The 6700 XT’s 12GB VRAM nets you a huge 50% lead over the RTX 3070. Both GPUs have identical TDPs and results show identical power consumption levels.

Noise and temperatures will vary depending on the specific model you purchase. Generally, RDNA2 and Ampere tend to have similar efficiency levels, so don’t expect to see any significant differences like those found with RDNA3 and Ada Lovelace.

READ MORE: HDMI 2.1 vs DisplayPort 1.4: Which is Better in 2024? ➜

Gaming Benchmarks

We’ve referenced numerous sources for our gaming comparisons, with Hardware Unboxed being a primary choice given its widespread credibility in GPU reviews. While alternative sources are available, we’ve opted for a selection that offers diverse and dependable comparisons.

The test bench features AMD’s Zen3 kingpin, the Ryzen 9 5950X, coupled with 32GB of DDR4-3200 CL14 dual-channel and dual-rank memory. This review dates back to the 18th of March, 2022, so there is a small driver-induced X factor at play here, though we assume the difference to be minimal. For reference, HUB’s test setup used Adrenalin 22.2.3 and GeForce Game Ready 511.79 drivers for either GPU.

RTX 3070 Leads at 1080p, 1440p, and 4K Resolutions

Let’s cut to the chase, we’re obviously not going to be comparing all 50 games, instead, we’ll go over the summary. As per HUB, at 1080p, only Doom Eternal and Assassin’s Creed Valhalla saw the RX 6700 XT beating the RTX 3070 by more than 5%. Moreover, the RTX 3070 on the other hand was faster by 5% or more in 34 of the 50 games tested.

You’d expect AMD to clap back at 1440p, given its 12GB Frame Buffer, however, that’s simply not the case. At 1440p, the RTX 3070 was on average, 13% faster than the Radeon RX 6700 XT across 50 games. At 4K, this difference climbs up to 19% on average, with the RTX 3070 in lead.

NVIDIA is quite ahead in the number game, yet, there’s a small and largely overlooked issue. Going back to the 4K chart, Far Cry 6 saw the RX 6700 XT in lead by a whopping 30%. Turning off HD textures alleviates the 3070’s shortcomings, however, HUB mentions that 8GB will significantly throttle performance, especially since most games set 8GB as an entry point nowadays.

The RTX 3070’s Achilles’ Heel: Only 8GB of Memory

A video from Ancient Gameplay demonstrates why NVIDIA’s choice of 8GB is a clear weakness of the RTX 3070. In Resident Evil 4, at 1440p and higher, Max with RT High, the RTX 3070 simply crashes due to its lack of VRAM. Of course, you can dial down the settings and enjoy a playable experience, but this will become more apparent as time goes on and games become more demanding.

Likewise, without RT, the RTX 3070 delivers an enjoyable framerate in Hogwarts Legacy. Turn on RT, and up the resolution, its lead diminishes against the equivalent AMD card (RX 6700 XT / RX 6750 XT). In Ratchet and Clank: Rift Apart, Raytracing hampers the RTX 3070’s performance, though you have the option to enable Ray Reconstruction as a workaround.

Alan Wake 2 is the biggest offender in this list, since a simple resolution increase from 1080p -> 1440p, reduces the 3070’s performance by almost 4.5x. Let’s be clear, while 8GB is quite low for a card like the RTX 3070, optimization from developers has helped to maintain its performance lead.

The RTX 3070 has very strong raster throughput, but the VRAM eats away at its true potential. Currently, we’re seeing unexpected crashes and performance penalties in extreme-case scenarios. The RTX 3070 is a fine 1440p High GPU for now and should be for the foreseeable future.

Once it drops to the 1080p level, the RX 6700 XT too will see the same fate, since you’re more likely to be compute-bound by that point. Of course, games (+scenarios) where the RX 6700 XT will absolutely topple the RTX 3070 are indeed few are far between, but they do exist and will continue to grow.

READ MORE: Best NVIDIA RTX 3070 Graphics Cards for Raytracing Enthusiasts ➜

Productivity Tests

Let’s go over the productivity portion, and spoiler alert, Ampere wins this hands down. Using data from thefpsreview, we have several benchmarks in Blender, LuxMark, SPECviewperf, Geekbench and even Stable Diffusion.

Kicking off with Blender Open Data, with NVIDIA set to CUDA and AMD set to OpenCL, the RTX 3070 beats the RX 6700 XT by around 27%. Twisting things up with RTX Optix, an RT framework, and NVIDIA’s wild card, the RTX 3070 smokes the RX 6700 XT by almost 66%.

In LuxMark v4.0 HallBench using the OpenCL API, the RTX 3070 is, once again, 39% faster than its AMD equivalent. SPECviewperf shows some interesting results, keeping the RX 6700 XT on par with the RTX 3060 Ti. Yet, the RTX 3070 leads by 12%. Lastly in Geekbench 5, OpenCL and Vulkan see the RTX 3070 ahead by 37% and 112% respectively than the RX 6700 XT.

Stable Diffusion, an AI-enabled image generator harnesses the power of Tensor cores, Matrix or AI cores available on select GPUs. The RTX 3070 can generate roughly 10 768×768, 50-step images in 1 minute. The RX 6700 XT on the contrary, very sluggishly outputs only 1 said image per minute. That’s a huge difference and will carry over to almost every other AI generation tool like Midjourney.

READ MORE: Best 1440p Graphics Card Based on Performance and Value ➜

Software Stack: GeForce Experience vs Radeon Adrenalin

Hardware is one thing, but you must have adequate software to back it up. Moreover, adequate software not only includes drivers but also some extra gimmicks and features. Unsurprisingly, both AMD and NVIDIA have somewhat of a comparable software stack, but they do vary quite a bit in terms of quality and quantity.

GeForce Experience

Just recently, NVIDIA merged all of its software settings into an easy-to-navigate and modern package called ‘NVIDIA App‘. Team Green, on the RTX 30 series, offers NVIDIA Shadowplay, NVIDIA NVENC, NVIDIA Overlay, RTX Dynamic Vibrance, RTX HDR, RTX Broadcast, RTX Canvas, Reflex, DLDSR, RTX Super Resolution and a few more.

Radeon Adrenalin

AMD on the contrary, has also improved its software side of things in the past year or so, giving users heaps of choices such as AMD FMF, Radeon Anti-Lag/Anti-Lag+, AMD Radeon Boost, AMD RSR, AMD Radeon Chill, AMD Noise Suppression etcetera.

What’s the Difference?

Off the bat, AMD takes charge due to its AFMF Frame Generation tech, supported by almost every DirectX11 and DirectX12 title. While being a bit tricky to set up and not as good as native FSR 3 Frame Generation, you don’t exactly get anything from NVIDIA on the RTX 30 series.

NVIDIA’s Reflex edges out Anti-Lag+ thanks to a better implementation. AMD’s VSR also loses to NVIDIA’s DLDSR, since DLDSR leverages Deep Learning powered through Tensor Cores. AMD Noise Surpression, again takes a hit from NVIDIA’s Broadcast app which includes RTX Voice.

NVIDIA’s VSR (Video Super Resolution) has no AMD alternative, though Team Red is planning to launch one soon. Lastly, NVIDIA’s NVENC encoder is on-par or slightly better than AMD’s equivalent.

Features	NVIDIA	AMD
Overall App
Frame Generation
Reflex/Anti-Lag+
Video Encoder
Content Creation
Game Filters
Drivers

Long story short, while AMD has launched suitable substitutes to NVIDIA’s software features, they’re either not on par or quite lacking. Moreover, Team Green simply has more to offer like RTX HDR, RTX Dynamic Vibrance. However, NVIDIA does lose out in the Overall App category since the newly launched ‘NVIDIA App’ is nowhere as refined as Radeon Adrenalin.

READ MORE: 3080 Ti vs 3090: Which Is Better In 2024? ➜

The Verdict

Both the RTX 3070 and RX 6700 XT are extremely capable GPUs and neck to neck against one another. With everything discussed in great detail above, the verdict boils down to a couple of things. If you’re willing to sacrifice 4GB of VRAM for better software, and content creation, get the RTX 3070.

However, if your primary resolution is 1440p or higher, your last resort is game developers optimizing your favorite title(s) for 8GB of memory. In that case, the RX 6700 XT makes for a perfect gaming GPU. If you’re a streamer or a content creator, it’s always advisable to go with NVIDIA over AMD due to CUDA and NVENC.

1. RTX 3070

MSI GeForce RTX 3070 GAMING X TRIO

Pros

• Higher Raster Performance
• Better Software Stack
• Remarkable Content Creation Performance

Cons

• Only 8GB of Memory
• No Features for Frame Generation

-

Check Price

2. RX 6700 XT

PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT Red Devil

Pros

• 12GB of Memory
• Options for Frame Generation
• Can be Had for Cheaper than the RTX 3070

Cons

• Acceptable Software
• Not the Ideal Choice for Content Creators

1,011 Reviews

-

Check Price

The pricing, based on where you live, is certainly another important part of the puzzle. If the RX 6700 XT is much cheaper than the RTX 3070, spending 20-30% more will generally not make sense, especially if you can snag an RX 6800 16GB at that price. At similar price points, the aforementioned argument about VRAM vs productivity should be taken into consideration.

Sources: Tom’s Hardware, thefpsreview, Ancient Gameplays, Hardware Unboxed

The post RTX 3070 vs RX 6700 XT: Which GPU Should You Buy in 2024? appeared first on Appuals.

Since Asus offers various laptop models with unique designs, the location of the power button may vary. Knowing exactly where it is can save you time and ensure a smooth start to your computing tasks.

Advancements in Power Buttons

ASUS is known for its unique designs and innovative concepts. What didn’t change even in such cutting-edge designer approaches is the need of a power button for activation. In fact, the role of the power button has remained fundamental throughout the evolution of computer technology.

In addition to the conventional method of waking up your ASUS laptop, developers offer features like Instant-on technology, allowing users to wake their system from sleep with just a keyboard or touchpad input, thus enhancing their experience. Windows also provides a similar feature where users can configure their system to turn on with the action of opening the lid.

Despite these advancements, understanding the placement of the power button in your ASUS laptop remains essential. Many latest generations of laptops have not only changed the design and button placements but also evolved the functionality of the power button to a hybrid mode. In many laptops today, the power button doubles as a fingerprint sensor, providing added security for accessing user accounts.

READ MORE: How to Restart Phone without Power Button (Android & iOS) ➜

Where is the Power Button on Asus Laptop?

In most ASUS laptops, the power button is strategically positioned for user convenience, usually found in the top row alongside the function keys. However, newer models offer unique placement options, such as near the hinge, on the side panel, or even on the base of the laptop. While it may require a bit of searching, once you’re familiar with the location based on your laptop model, you’ll spot it right away!

1. ASUS VivoBook & Zenbook Series

Given the traditional layout of the ASUS VivoBook and Zenbook series, their power buttons are also conventionally placed. Typically, you’ll find them at the right corner of the keyboard, in the top row. However, this placement differs for the Flipbook and Duo series of each laptop.

READ MORE: ASUS VIVOBOOK S14 S433E Review ➜

2. ASUS Transformer Book

The ASUS Transformer Book effortlessly switches between laptop and tablet modes within seconds. With the ability to detach the lid and convert it into a tablet, it’s only logical to integrate the power button directly on the lid. This ensures accessibility whether using the Transformer Book in laptop or tablet mode, as the display panel remains essential in both configurations.

3. ASUS Chromebook Series

Certain ASUS models, such as those in the Chromebook series, integrate the power button into the keyboard, often positioned alongside the Function keys. While it typically features a power symbol for easy recognition, the same cannot be said for its placement.

READ MORE: How to Screen Record on A Chromebook [3 Different Ways] ➜

4. ASUS ZenBook Duo & Zephyrus Duo Series

ASUS is among the few manufacturers to incorporate the secondary panel in both the Zenbook Duo and Zephyrus Duo series. This not only enhances productivity but also necessitates unique placement for the power button.

Given that almost half of the laptop’s base space is occupied by the ScreenPad (as ASUS calls it), the power button has been relocated on top of the touchpad. This adjustment ensures users do not need to stretch their arm across the second display to turn it on.

5. ASUS ROG Flow, VivoBook Flip, Zenbook Fold & ExpertBook Series

Most of ASUS’s 2-in-1 laptops, flipbooks, and folds feature their power buttons on the side panel, alongside other ports. This placement ensures accessibility regardless of the screen’s orientation. If the power button were on the keyboard, users would need to flip the laptop every time they used it as a tablet just to access the power button. Not very efficient, is it?

6. ASUS ROG Zephyrus and Strix Series

For ultra-thin and gaming laptops, ASUS cleverly positions the power button near the hinge, atop the keyboard. Of course, you wouldn’t want accidental inputs during intense gaming sessions.

READ MORE: What is Power-On Self-Test in Computers? POST Explained ➜

Wrap Up

If you’re still unable to locate the power button on ASUS laptop, look for a button featuring a power symbol or the word “Power/PWR.” Many laptops also have an LED indicator next to the power button that displays its power status.

Remember, the stated placements are common for their respective series. However, variations may exist within each series and across different models. In such cases, refer to the laptop’s user manual to accurately locate the power button.

The post Where is Power Button on ASUS Laptop? [All Models Guide] appeared first on Appuals.

1. Basic Troubleshooting

Start with some fundamental steps.

1. Restart: Shut down the system and disconnect the power cable. After waiting a minute, reconnect the power cord and turn on the system.
2. Compatible RAM: Verify that the newer RAM sticks you are attempting to use with XMP are compatible with your motherboard. Refer to the Qualified Vendor List (QVL) provided by the motherboard’s manufacturer for confirmation.

2. Check the Current RAM Speeds

Inspect your existing RAM speeds before adjusting any settings.

Open Command Prompt and run:

wmic memorychip get speed

3. Clear the System’s CMOS

The system’s CMOS retains its BIOS configurations, including memory controller settings that can prevent XMP from initializing if they are inaccurate. Resetting the CMOS can resolve the issue.

1. Power off the system and disconnect the power cable.
2. Open the case and locate the CMOS battery, which is similar to a watch battery but larger.
3. Gently remove the battery and hold down the power button for 30 seconds.

   

4. Wait a minute before reinserting the CMOS battery.
5. Replace the cover, reconnect the power, and turn on the system.
6. Boot into the BIOS, enable XMP, and save the settings.
7. Restart the system and observe whether the changes take effect.
8. If the issue persists, replace the CMOS battery with a new one and repeat the above steps.

4. Uninstall Conflicting Apps

Some applications may interfere with XMP at the operating system level, preventing the profile from functioning. Overclocking utilities such as the Dell Alienware Command Center may be the cause, and uninstalling any problematic software could resolve the issue.

1. Start Windows and right-click on the Start button.
2. Select Apps & Features and find the Dell Command Center.
3. Click to expand the options and select Uninstall.

   

4. Proceed with the uninstallation following the on-screen prompts.
5. After completion, restart the system and clear the CMOS (refer to previous steps).
6. Again, enable XMP in the BIOS and check if it is now functional.

5. Uninstall Intel Iris Xe Graphics Driver

Resource conflicts between XMP and the graphics driver may result in the operating system downgrading RAM speeds to maintain display functionality. This could be the issue when using the Intel Iris Xe Graphics Driver. Uninstalling it could resolve the problem.

1. Right-click the Start button and access Device Manager.
2. Expand the Display Adapters tab, right-click on the graphics device, and select Uninstall Device. In the confirmation box, select “Delete the driver software for this device.”

   

3. Follow through the uninstallation process, then restart the system.
4. Enter the BIOS setup, enable XMP, and record any improvements upon restarting.

6. Disable Memory Integrity on Windows

Memory Integrity is a feature of Windows’ core isolation that might prevent XMP modules from accessing necessary resources. Disabling this feature could solve the problem.

1. Open the Start menu and type Windows Security.
2. Launch it, navigate to Device Security, and click on Core Isolation Details.
3. Turn off Memory Integrity and reboot the system.

   

7. Connect the Extra Power Connector on the Motherboard

Motherboards come with multiple power connectors to cater to different power requirements. Some motherboards may need additional power to support XMP, and failing to connect this extra power connector can be a common oversight, especially by gamers. Securing this connection could resolve the issue.

1. Turn off the system and disconnect the power cable.
2. Open the case and locate any unused power connector, like an 8-pin or 4-pin connector that hasn’t been connected.

   

3. Attach the extra power connector appropriately and replace the case cover. If uncertain, refer to the motherboard’s manual or consult an expert for assistance.
4. Power on the system and test the efficacy of XMP.

8. Clean and Reseat The RAMs in the XMP Supported Slots

The XMP profile works in specific motherboard slots. If the RAM sticks are incorrectly seated or dust is present in the RAM slots, XMP may not engage. Cleaning and reseating the RAM in the correct slots could resolve this.

1. Power down the system and unplug the power cable.
2. Open the case and extract the RAM sticks from their slots.
3. Clean the slots and RAM using a Compressed Air Can.

   

4. Reinsert the RAM sticks into the correct slots, typically the A2 and B2 slots, which are the second and fourth channels from the CPU and are XMP-compatible.
5. If this method doesn’t yield results, proceed to remove the RAM sticks, cooler, and CPU. Ensure proper seating of all components and attempt to engage XMP once more.

9. Try XMP on One Stick at a Time

Faulty memory sticks or incompatibility with other hardware components can cause XMP to fail. Isolate the issue by testing XMP with each stick individually.

1. Shut down the system and disconnect it from the power source.
2. Open the system and remove all RAM sticks.
3. Reinsert just one stick into an XMP-supporting slot.

   

4. Close the case, reconnect the power, and reboot into BIOS.
5. Enable XMP, save settings, and observe its behavior within the OS.
6. Repeat this process with the other RAM sticks, ensuring they are placed in an XMP-compatible slot.

If XMP fails with any of the sticks, it may indicate that the stick is faulty or incompatible. Conduct further testing in a different system if necessary.

10. Edit the BIOS Settings

Certain BIOS settings could interfere with XMP’s functionality. Adjusting these settings may rectify the issue, keeping in mind that labelings and availability may vary depending on the system’s BIOS.

10.1. Update the BIOS to the Latest Version

Follow the specific guidelines of your system’s manufacturer for BIOS updates:

• Dell
• HP
• Gateway
• Lenovo
• MSI

Post-update, reassess XMP functionality. If your system features Management Engine Firmware, ensure it is also up to date.

10.2. Enable Resize Bar and 4G Decoding

1. Access the Advanced System Settings in the BIOS, set the Re-size Bar to Enabled, and enable 4G Decoding.

   

2. Save changes and reboot the system.
3. Upon restart, access BIOS once more and enable XMP.

10.3. Disable RGB Fusion

1. Navigate to Peripherals > RGB Fusion within the BIOS.

   

2. Disable RGB Fusion, save, and then restart.
3. Attempt to activate XMP again after reboot.

10.4. Disable Fast Memory Boot

1. In the BIOS, under Overclocking, locate and disable Fast Memory Boot.

   

2. After saving the changes, reboot and enable XMP to observe any changes.

10.5. Disable Auto Low Latency and High Bandwidth

1. Enter the BIOS and proceed to Advanced CPU Settings.
2. Turn off Auto Low Latency and High Bandwidth.

   

3. Save and restart the system.
4. Test XMP effectiveness within the operating system after reboot.

10.6. Reset BIOS to the Defaults

1. Inside BIOS, press F5 to load defaults, though the specific key might differ by system.
2. Confirm the reset action and save the settings once completed.

   

3. Reconfigure XMP settings in the BIOS after restarting.

10.7. Downgrade the System’s BIOS

The procedure for downgrading the BIOS closely resembles the update process. Locate and download an older BIOS version from the OEM’s website and apply the aforementioned instructions to downgrade.

11. Try Different Overclocking Modifications

XMP is essentially a form of RAM overclocking. If other components of the system aren’t aligned with XMP’s requirements, it might not function properly. Trying different overclocking configurations might be beneficial.

Since overclocking varies across different systems, we’ll outline some general steps below. However, precise instructions will depend on your specific hardware configuration.

11.1. Increase Voltage

• VCCSA: 1.35V or 1.25V.
• VDDQ TX (CPU): 1.4V.
• DRAM Voltage: 1.4V, 1.36V, 1.35V, 1.25V, or 1.2V.
• IMC Voltage: Within 0.5V of DRAM voltage.
• SoC Voltage: 1.25V or 1.30V.
• QPI/VTT: 1.25V.
• Adjust VDDCR SoC Voltage to offset mode and increase it by 6.5mV.
• VDD/VDDQ: 1.25V, 1.30V, or 1.4V.
• VDD2: 1.4V.

11.2. Timing Values

• Cycle Time (Trc): 57 or 65.
• Timings: 16-18-18-36, 40-40-40, or 36-36-36.

11.3. Frequency

• Frequency: 3000 MHz, 3200 MHz, or the maximum supported by your system.
• Set RAM speeds to the highest levels that both the system’s motherboard and CPU can accommodate. Refer to the system’s manual or the OEM’s website for the correct ratings.

Should the XMP issues persist, reach out to your system’s OEM support. The problem might be with the RAM sticks themselves or potentially with the motherboard, particularly if one of the RAM slots is defective.

The post How to Resolve XMP Not Working Issue? appeared first on Appuals.

In this guide, we will take an in-depth look at all the different types of chargers, and which one could potentially fit your needs and devices.

Types of Mobile Phone Chargers

Today, most phones, laptops, cameras, and other electronic devices rely on the USB standard. This protocol negotiates the optimal charging voltage and current for safer charging. Over the past three decades, it has firmly established itself as the industry standard.

However, USB connectors come in various shapes and sizes, each catering to specific device needs. The most common now is USB Type-C, followed by Type-A, Micro-USB, USB-3, Type-B, and Mini-USB. These types differ in how they communicate with the connected device.

Then, you also have wireless charging, which, using electromagnetic induction, has recently emerged as an alternative to wired charging. Energy is transferred wirelessly from a charging pad to a device with a built-in receiver coil. Phones, in particular, have a confusing array of fast-charging standards and protocols. We’ll delve deeper into each of these in detail later.

READ MORE: Is Wireless Charging Bad for Your Smartphone Battery?

Mobile Phone Charging Connectors

While most phones nowadays come with a single, unified charging connector—USB Type-C, some other phones and devices use separate connectors.

1. USB Type-C

Many phone manufacturers, including Apple, Samsung, and Google, have adopted the USB Type-C standard. This eliminates the need for carrying multiple cables because it serves as a multi-functional connector. Unlike other types of connectors, it can:

• Charge your device at a much higher wattage (Fast Charging).
• Transfer data at faster speeds.
• Provide video output for external displays.
• Deliver audio through headphones or speakers.
• Even power other devices, acting as a portable power bank.

The USB Type-C connector is also reversible, so you can insert it into your phone’s port without worrying about which side is up. USB-C is also the only connector that supports USB Power Delivery which enables a standardized power system capable of delivering up to 240W of power.

READ MORE: What is USB Power Delivery? USB-PD & Its Types Explained ➜

2. USB Type-A

USB Type-A has long served as a reliable power source and data communication protocol, but it had its own set of evident downsides. For one, there was a 50% chance of improperly inserting the connector into the port. It was slow and often required a separate connector on the other end of the cable, which made it inconvenient.

It also lacked the capability to handle video output, audio output, and power delivery to other devices. This resulted in major manufacturers abandoning this connector, and while it has yet to fully disappear, it is definitely seeing less use in modern phones.

3. Micro-USB

Before USB Type-C, most phones used the Micro-USB connector for charging. While it served the mobile industry for well over a decade, there were some serious reservations about the fragility of its pins. Specifically, plugging it in the wrong direction could not only damage the charger but also the phone’s port itself, which at times was expensive to repair.

Micro-USB was slow and only supported a maximum charging speed of 18W, which, for reference, is found on today’s entry-level smartphones. The connector is now rarely used on low-power electronic devices and is slowly diminishing.

READ MORE: How to Identify USB Ports by their Symbols ➜

4. USB Type-B

Unlike some larger devices like printers and scanners, phones never used USB Type-B ports for charging. While Type-B was a popular connection protocol several years ago, it’s rarely used for powering devices today.

5. Mini-USB

One of the earliest USB power connectors, the Mini-USB was the dominant charging standard in the early 2000s. However, it had a reputation for being easily damaged due to its larger size and less robust design. The tiny pins were prone to bending and breaking, especially with repeated use. This is why it quickly died down and was replaced by Micro-USB in the late 2000s.

READ MORE: USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0 vs USB 3.1: Which should you Have and Why? ➜

6. Apple’s Lightning Connector

Apple primarily used the Lightning connector on all of its mobile devices. However, with the release of the iPhone 15 series in September 2023, Apple transitioned to using a USB-C port instead of the Lightning port. This shift is expected to gradually phase out the Lightning cable from most, if not all, Apple products in the future.

Fast Charging Standards and Protocols

In the early 2020s, fast charging in mobile phones started becoming common, and so, with that, we saw the emergence of various proprietary protocols by different manufacturers. Unfortunately, this has resulted in incompatibility between brands, meaning you can’t always achieve the same charging speed and wattage even if your phone supports it, and you have the right charger.

Some of the most common proprietary protocols are discussed in detail below:

1. Samsung Super Fast Charging (SFC): It is the successor to the Adaptive Fast Charging (AFC) Standard. SFC is Samsung’s proprietary protocol, enabling its phones and tablets to charge with up to 65W of power. Devices supporting USB PD 3.0 and SFC can charge up to 25W, while those supporting USB PD 3.0 and SFC 2.0 can charge up to 65W.
2. Qualcomm Quick Charge: This standard is a family of proprietary fast charging technologies divided into multiple sub-versions, ranging from Quick Charge 2.0 (QC 2.0) to 5.0 (QC 5.0). These sub-versions offer varying levels of power output, with QC 2.0 providing 5W and QC 5.0 reaching a staggering 200W.
3. OnePlus Warp Charge: The predecessor to the SUPERVOOC technology currently used in both OPPO and OnePlus devices, Warp Charge offers fast charging speeds ranging from 30W (Warp Charge 30) to 65W (Warp Charge 65). This allows compatible devices to reach up to 50% charge in as little as 15-25 minutes.
4. Apple Fast Charging: Unlike many other phone manufacturers that have specific fast charging protocols, Apple doesn’t follow a single standard. Instead, it prioritizes battery health over achieving the fastest possible charging speeds. Due to this, you’ll see a noticeable gap in charging speeds compared to some competitors.

READ MORE: [FIXED] Why Does My Charger Keep Going On and Off? ➜

Types of Charging Adapters

Not only do chargers have different cables and protocols, but the charging adapters you use also come in all sorts of different shapes and sizes, depending on your needs and requirements.

1. Wall Adapters

A wall adapter is the part of your charger that plugs in directly to the wall and, in most cases, the part responsible for your phone’s charging speed. It comes in different shapes and sizes. Most wall adapters have a USB Type-A port to connect your charging cable, but newer adapters use the USB Type-C port.

2. Wireless Pads

Wireless charging has recently emerged as an alternative to conventional wired charging, and for good reason. It eliminates the need to have a cable attached, making charging your device as easy as simply placing your phone onto the pad. It’s safer too, since it eliminates the risk of tripping over or damaging your device.

You can charge multiple devices on it, and it can also be universally used in any device that comes with a built-in wireless charging coil. However, in most cases, it does charge slower when compared to wired charging and can heat up your device.

3. Car Chargers

Most car chargers connect directly to the cigarette lighter socket, typically found on the center console or dashboard. They usually have either a Type-A or Type-C port at their end or a cable with one of these connectors.

For vehicles equipped with USB sockets, you can directly connect your charging cable to charge your device. Some cars even feature specialized high-powered USB ports, capable of delivering 10W (5V at 2A) or even 18W (9V at 2A) for faster charging. Additionally, some modern cars offer USB-C ports supporting Power Delivery profiles, reaching up to 100W.

READ MORE: Reverse Charging – How to Use Your Phone as an Improvised Power Bank ➜

Conclusion

Mobile charging has become more complicated in the last few years, but this complexity is mainly to improve convenience. Manufacturers are pushing the boundaries of charging speeds, and solutions like MagSafe show how battery life may become less of a concern for smartphone users in the future.

The post The 6 Different Types of Chargers That Power Your Devices appeared first on Appuals.

Damage to the camera, such as from a fall or water exposure, may cause it to blink orange. Some users might hear a clicking or flashing sound when pressing the shutter button, yet the camera fails to produce an image. According to the user manual, an orange blinking light indicates a potential electrical or mechanical malfunction.

When troubleshooting, be mindful not to expose the film to light which could ruin your photos. If you need to remove the film, do so in a dark room or underneath a blanket to protect any previously taken pictures.

Basic Troubleshooting

1. Restart the Instax Mini 11 camera.
2. Press the Power and Shutter buttons simultaneously.
3. Gently tap all sides of the camera.
4. Inspect for any blockages on the camera’s sensors.
5. Remove the cover from the Instax camera.
6. Reinsert the batteries.
7. Swap the positions of the current batteries.
8. Take out the batteries, reinsert them incorrectly on purpose, and then place them back in the correct orientation.
9. Switch to new batteries. Be sure to use non-rechargeable Alkaline batteries (specifically LR6 AA 1.5V) from a trusted brand like Duracell. Do not use NiMH (Nickel-Metal-Hydride), NiCd (Nickel-Cadmium), Zinc-Carbon, or Lithium-Ion batteries.

1. Reset the Instax Mini to Factory Defaults

A flashing orange light on the Instax Mini 11 may occur if there’s a firmware issue or if hardware components like the lens are not functioning properly. Resetting the camera to factory defaults can help resolve this.

1. While the camera is on and the lens is extended, remove the batteries.
2. Wait for 10 seconds before reinserting the batteries.

   

3. Switch the camera on and give it a moment to start up, which may take longer than usual this time.
4. Perform a restart to check if the orange blinking light has stopped.

2. Clean the Instax Mini Camera

Dust or debris inside the camera can hinder the internal mechanisms and result in the blinking orange light. Cleaning the camera thoroughly can help eliminate this issue.

Warning: Opening the camera can spoil the film and possibly damage photos already taken. Perform the following steps at your own risk, taking necessary precautions to avoid damaging the camera or film.

1. Switch off the camera and open the battery compartment cover.
2. Remove the batteries and open the camera body.
3. Use a Compressed Air Can to blow out dust and debris; then, wipe with a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining particles.

   

4. If any component, like gears, feel jammed, carefully adjust them by hand to ensure smooth movement.
5. Clean the photometers located at the front; avoid using liquids, but if necessary, wait until it’s thoroughly dry before proceeding. Also, it’s advisable to not use a Q-tip as the fibers might get caught in the gears or motors.
6. Reassemble the camera and insert the batteries again.
7. Power on the camera to determine if the flashing issue has been resolved.

3. Manually Adjust the Lens and Lighting Sensor

An incorrectly positioned lens or lighting sensor may cause the camera to signal a problem by blinking orange. Manually adjusting these components could fix the issue.

Warning: These steps carry the risk of rendering film worthless or voiding the warranty of the camera. Attempt them at your own risk.

1. Turn off the camera and remove its batteries.
2. Manually adjust the lens and lighting sensor to their default positions.

   

3. Reinsert the batteries and switch on the camera to see if the light is no longer blinking orange.
4. If the problem persists, while the camera is on, remove the film.
5. Manually push the lens from the inside so that it extends outwards.
6. Cycle the power of the camera to check if the blinking has stopped.

4. Check for Any Stuck Film Cartridge

A stuck film cartridge can prevent the camera from operating correctly, causing an orange blinking light. Removing a jammed film cartridge may solve the problem.

Warning: Attempting to fix this issue on your own comes with risks, including potential damage to the camera or film. Use the appropriate tools and take care not to harm the area where the film is held.

1. Switch off the camera and take out its batteries.
2. Open the film compartment and remove the film.
3. Look for any edges that might be stuck; gently extract them with tweezers if you find any.

   

4. Quickly replace the film, then reinstall the batteries.
5. Power on the camera to see if the issue has been resolved.
6. If not, try replacing it with a new film cartridge and check again.
7. Should the camera still not work, remove the film and attempt to take a picture without it.
8. Once done, reload the film to see if the problem is corrected.

5. Manually Adjust the Internal Gear of the Instax Mini 11

The camera may blink orange if the internal gear is stuck or misaligned. Manually adjusting the gear to the correct position might fix the issue. If your camera is under warranty, consider seeking professional assistance instead.

Warning: Proceeding with the following steps may void the camera’s warranty, damage the film, or compromise existing photos. Incorrect handling could permanently damage the camera. Use protective gear, as you could be shocked by touching live electronic components. The Instax Mini 11 contains capacitors that could discharge high voltage, posing a severe shock risk. These steps should only be performed by those with the necessary skills and experience.

1. Switch the camera off and remove its batteries.
2. Open the camera and detach the battery compartment.
3. Disconnect the motor and lift the plate concealing the gears.

   

4. Maneuver the large gear so that the small notch near the center points directly downward—you may need to remove other gears for this. Documenting with photos before disassembly is helpful to remember the exact placement of each gear.

   

5. Replace the plate and insert the batteries.
6. Power the camera on; you may hear the motor whir before the flashing reoccurs.
7. Turn the camera off and then on again.
8. Before the motor ceases spinning, power off the camera one more time.
9. Reassemble any gears or motors you previously removed.
10. Reattach any other components and put the batteries in place.
11. When you turn on the camera next, it might make some noise, but once it powers on correctly, the blinking light should stop. Detailed instructions with photos can be found on the Imgur page and the Reddit post.
12. If the problem persists, reopen the camera and try replacing the motor screws with longer ones.
13. Close the camera and see if the issue has been resolved.

If none of these solutions work, it’s time to contact Instax Support for additional help. If your camera is still under warranty, you may be eligible for a replacement. As a precaution for the future, remove the batteries when the camera is not in use to prevent any malfunctions.

The post How to Fix a Blinking Orange Light on Your Instax Mini 11 Camera? appeared first on Appuals.

Fortunately, there are several methods available to reset your BIOS password. Doing so will grant you access to the BIOS menu, where you can then change or set a new password if you wish. Below is a guide outlining the three most effective methods for removing a BIOS password, allowing you to choose the most feasible option for your situation.

1. Remove CMOS Battery

The simplest method to remove the BIOS password is by taking out the CMOS battery on your motherboard. The CMOS battery maintains your BIOS settings; hence, removing it resets the motherboard to its default settings.

This process involves opening your PC to physically remove the battery. If you’re not comfortable handling the hardware, consider trying the next method.

1. Begin by powering off your computer and unplugging the power cable.

   

2. Next, remove the cover from your PC to access the motherboard.
3. Locate and remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard. Refer to the image below if you are unsure of its appearance.

   

4. Leave the CMOS battery out for at least 5 minutes to discharge, which will erase your BIOS settings.
5. Reinsert the CMOS battery into its slot and reconnect your power cable.
6. Power on your computer and access the BIOS menu.
7. You should now find that the BIOS password has been reset, permitting entry to the BIOS menu.

2. Use a Master Password

Resetting the BIOS password can also be achieved by using a master password. Motherboard manufacturers typically provide a master password that corresponds to a system code, which can be used to bypass the BIOS menu in such situations.

Master passwords are unique and based on the system code displayed after entering the incorrect BIOS password several times. Follow these steps to use a master password:

1. Firstly, restart your computer and proceed to the BIOS password entry screen.
2. Input an incorrect password three times.

   

3. A code should then be displayed on the screen.

   

4. Make sure to note down this code or take a photo to ensure you have a record of it. If a code is not shown, you may need to obtain a master password from the manufacturer using the laptop’s serial number or another method. For hints, you may refer to the table on the website linked below.
5. Access the BIOS Password website by clicking here.
6. Input the code you received and select Get Password.

   

7. The site should provide you with one or more passwords.
8. Restart your computer and try these passwords; one of them should enable access.

3. Use CLR CMOS Jumpers

You can also clear the BIOS settings by using CLR CMOS jumpers on your motherboard. This is an alternative to removing the CMOS battery, and every motherboard includes these jumpers.

Instead of extracting the battery, you can short the CLR CMOS pins on the motherboard. The number of pins—two or three—varies depending on the motherboard model.

1. Power off your computer and detach the power cable, as before.

   

2. Open your PC to gain access to the motherboard.
3. Identify the CLR CMOS jumpers on the motherboard, marked with the text “CLR CMOS” nearby or underneath the pins.

   

4. If there are three pins, connect the second and third pins to clear the BIOS; for two pins, short them together using something conductive, like a screwdriver tip.
5. Hold the short for a minimum of 30 seconds.
6. Reconnect the power cable and power up your PC.
7. The BIOS password should now be removed, providing access to the BIOS settings.

Note: These are the most reliable methods to reset the BIOS settings on your PC to remove the BIOS password. Alternatively, third-party utilities can also serve to reset the BIOS password, but they may not work for all manufacturers and can be considered outdated.

Should you encounter issues resetting the BIOS password with these methods, you should contact the support team for your motherboard manufacturer for further assistance.

The post How to Remove Your Computer’s BIOS Password When Forgot? appeared first on Appuals.

Symptoms

Sometimes, you may notice the power button or caps lock button lighting up for a brief moment, usually a few seconds. You might also hear the fan spinning briefly, but sometimes there won’t be any noise. Additionally, the charging light may turn on when you plug in the charger. However, in certain situations, pressing the power button won’t do anything, and the laptop may seem completely dead.

Cause

Sometimes, the problem occurs after a BIOS or OS update. There are also reports of the issue happening when the laptop is connected to an external display through USB-C. It’s interesting to note that this problem has been observed even in new laptops that have just been unboxed. Additionally, the issue may start to occur when the laptop’s battery level drops to a critically low level.

Troubleshooting Prerequisites

1. Connect the laptop to an external display unit and check the output. If it works, the laptop’s screen is damaged.
2. If your HP Envy X360 is in tablet mode, pressing the power button will not turn on the laptop. Raise the laptop screen to an angle between 30 and 45 degrees, then press the power button.

How to Fix an HP Envy X360 That is Not Turning on

Firstly, we will try to power on the HP laptop and will then look into the factors causing the problem.

1. Perform a Hard Reboot

If the static current is present on the motherboard of your HP Envy X360, its processor will fail to detect a good power signal from the power button and thus will not turn on. In such a case, performing a hard reboot of the laptop will resolve the issue.

Press the Power Button

1. Unplug the charger from the laptop and press/hold the laptop’s power button.

   

2. Wait for 30 seconds and release the button.
3. Plug back the charger and press the power button. Verify if the HP laptop has turned on.

Leave Unplugged for Extended Time

1. Unplug the charger from the laptop and leave the laptop unplugged for an extended time (such as overnight).

   

2. Plug back the charger into the laptop and check if the laptop can be turned on.

Plug the Charger while Holding the Power Button

1. Remove the charger from the laptop and wait for a minute.
2. Press/hold the power button and while holding the button, plug back the charger. 

   

3. Wait for 7 seconds and release the button. Confirm if the HP Envy has powered on.

2. Clean the Charging Port of the HP Envy X360

If the charging port has accumulated dust, the charger will fail to establish a proper connection with the laptop, resulting in the battery not charging. Consequently, once the battery is depleted, the laptop will not power on.

In such a case, cleaning the charging port of the HP laptop will solve the problem.

1. Remove the charger from the laptop and use a Compressed Air Can blow air into the charging port.

   

2. Blow air onto the laptop’s fan area and the keyboard.
3. Get a toothpick and use it to clear the charging port. Be careful, do not damage the port.
4. Connect back the charger and wait for a few minutes.
5. Press the power button and verify if the laptop has powered on.

3. Try Another Charger or Power Source

If the power source is not providing the required current to the charger or the charger itself is faulty, the HP Envy laptop will not get charged once its battery is fully drained and hence you will not be able to turn it on.

To fix this, try another power source or charger.

Another Power Source

1. Connect the charger to another power source (make sure the power source is working by connecting another electronic device to it) in another room and put the laptop on charging. If you are using a surge protector or an extension cable, connect the charger directly to a socket on the main power.
2. Wait for a few minutes and press the power button. See if the problem is solved.

Another Charger

1. Arrange another original HP charger (from family, friends, colleagues, etc.) and put the laptop on charging.
2. Wait for a few minutes and press the power button. Confirm if the laptop is turning on.

4. Unplug the Laptop Battery from the Motherboard

If the battery is malfunctioning, it will not let you turn on the laptop. In such a case, you can power the laptop on a charger after unplugging the laptop battery from the motherboard.

1. Disconnect the charger from the laptop and dislodge the top cover of the laptop after removing its screws.

   

2. Disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard and wait for a minute.

   

3. Plug back the battery cable to the motherboard and connect the top cover.
4. Press the power button and verify if the laptop has powered on.
5. If not, disconnect the battery from the motherboard and press/hold the power button for 30 seconds.
6. Plug the charger into the laptop (without connecting the battery) and press the power button. See if the laptop has turned on.
7. If so, check if the battery is swollen. If so, the laptop needs a new battery.
8. If the battery is not damaged, power off the laptop and remove the charger.
9. Connect back the battery and plug the charger into the laptop.
10. Press the power button and see if the laptop has turned on.

5. Reset the Laptop’s BIOS to the Factory Defaults

The HP Envy laptop won’t turn on if its BIOS is malfunctioning or damaged. This can occur if the latest update to the BIOS did not go well. To solve this, reset the laptop’s BIOS to the factory defaults.

1. If there is any sign of life in the laptop, press/hold the power button till it powers off.
2. Disconnect the charger from the laptop and press hold the following buttons:

   Windows
   
   B

3. While holding these buttons, connect back the charger and press the power button.

   

4. Release the buttons when the BIOS recovery screen is shown and then follow the instructions on the laptop screen to complete the process.
5. Once done, verify if the issue is cleared.
6. If not, disconnect the laptop’s battery from the motherboard (as discussed above) and retry the above steps (without connecting back the battery). Confirm if this solves the problem.

How to Avoid This Issue in the Future

If you can successfully turn on the HP Envy using any of the methods mentioned above, but the issue keeps coming back, there might be several other factors contributing to this problem. Addressing these factors, as discussed below, can help prevent the issue from recurring.

1. Update the Laptop’s OS

To update Windows:

1. Right-click Windows and navigate to Settings > Windows Update.

   

2. Click on Check for Updates and install all the available updates.
3. Restart the laptop and see if the problem does not reoccur.

2. Update the BIOS of the HP Envy X360

1. Launch a web browser and go to the Software and Download section of the HP website.
2. Download the BIOS update as per your laptop’s specs and open the downloaded file as an administrator.

   

3. Follow the prompts on the screen to complete the process and once done, verify if the issue is cleared.

3. Uninstall MS AC Adapter and MS ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery

1. Right-click Windows and open Device Manager.
2. Expand the Batteries and right-click on MS AC Adapter.
3. Select Uninstall and repeat the same to MS ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery.

   

4. Restart the system and see if the issue is permanently cleared.

4. Disable Intel Integrated Sensor Solution

1. Open the Device Manager and expand System Devices.
2. Double-click on Intel Integrated Sensor Solution and click on Disable Device.

   

3. Confirm to disable the device and restart the system. Verify if the problem is solved.

If none of the above methods powers on the HP laptop, contact HP Support and seek assistance in resolving the issue. If the laptop is under warranty, you may claim the same. If the laptop is out of warranty, get the laptop checked for a hardware issue. These issues can be a faulty power button, a malfunctioning battery, a problematic hard disk, a damaged charging port, a blown-out capacitor, or a fried motherboard.

The post Is your HP Envy X360 Not Turning On? Here’s how to fix it appeared first on Appuals.

However, it’s been 7 years since the G29’s initial release and while it still remains a great option, there are other worthwhile substitutes on the market now. So let’s take a look the best alternatives to the Logitech G29 racing wheel.

1. Logitech G920

The G29's Xbox Counterpart

Pros

• Competitive price
• Ergonomic leather grip
• Great build quality
• Very realistic force feedback considering the price tag
• Decent quality metal paddle shifters

Cons

• The brake pedal is infamous for its stiffness
• Can be too loud sometimes due to the gears grinding inside the wheelbase

Force Feedback: Dual-motor system | Rotation: 900 degrees | Warranty: 2 years limited hardware warranty | Steering Wheel: Ergonomic leather grip | Pedal Board: 3 pedals | Compatibility: Xbox Series X/S, Xbox One and PC

Check Price

The Logitech G920 is the Logitech G29’s Xbox counterpart, therefore boasting nearly the same features. We say nearly because the G29 does have a slight edge over the G920 in some aspects such as the RPM LEDs and the rotator knob which the G920 lacks. In function however, they’re identical. So, if you’re on Xbox and want a wheel that works on both PC and your console, the G920 is a perfect alternative.

The Logitech G920 offers an ergonomic steering wheel design, which is very durable, coated with a leather grip and outputs a peak torque of 2.2Nm. The paddle shifters are designed with stainless steel. Force feedback is generated through a dual-motor system inside the wheelbase, which allows for quite a realistic experience, although it can feel a bit off and janky in select circumstances.

The pedal set has a plastic base with a carpet grip. The pedals themselves are made of metal and are quick and responsive. However, the most common issue that has been encountered by many, is the stiffness of the brake pedal. This can be quite a nuisance, as the other pedals don’t have to pressed down as hard. Additionally, the brake pedal may develop creakiness over time thanks its stiffness.

2. Thrustmaster T300RS

Best Alternative to the G29

Pros

• Durable build
• Excellent force feedback which is perfect for beginners
• Silent
• High-quality metal paddle shifters

Cons

• The pedal base is mediocre
• Fan is too loud

Force Feedback: Dual belt system | Rotation: 1080 degrees | Pedal Board: 2 pedals | Steering Wheel: Hot swappable; made of durable plastic build and coated with rubber grip | Warranty: 2 years | Compatibility: PS5, PS4, PS3 and PC

Check Price

The Thrustmaster T300RS is an excellent mid-tier racing wheel that manages to get almost everything right on any racing sim hobbyist’s checklist; realistic force feedback, responsive and premium paddle shifters, large amount of rotation and durability. The wheel requires assembly, but it’s nothing too complicated thanks to the detailed and simple instruction manuals.

The T300RS uses a dual-belt system to deliver force feedback. This system has a direct connection with the motor, and smooths out any deadzones and sudden jolts, before delivering it to the player with the raw power being detracted. The motor is brushless servomotor that allows for silent function and delivers true-to-life feedback; a peak of around 4-4.5 Nm of torque (twice that of G29/G920).

The wheel provides 1080 degrees of rotation, an ergonomic grip, and with quality paddle shifters, performs its function well. Thrustmaster has also made the wheelbase hot-swappable; you can change steering wheels swiftly and with ease. The wheel also has Thrustmaster’s H.E.A.R.T (Hall Effect AccuRate Technology) which makes use of magnets to detect the wheel’s steering position.

The reason why the T300RS gets “almost” everything right on a sim racer’s checklist is its pedals. The lack of the clutch pedal and the cheap pedal base are a bit of a nuisance. The pedals themselves are made of metal and perform well enough, but the pedal base is made entirely of plastic and has really bad grip on surfaces, a bit worse than the pedals of the Logitech G29/920.

While the T300RS could’ve achieved a truly silent functioning like Direct Drive wheels, it’s unable to do so thanks to the fan inside the base, which produces roughly the same level of noise as an Xbox 360. Overall, it is a widely agreed fact in many sim racing forums that the T300RS is the best alternative to the G29. With better features, smooth and silent force feedback, premium parts, it’s well worth the cost.

The T300RS has 3 editions; the base T300 RS, the Ferrari Integral Alcantara Edition and the Gran Turismo (GT) Edition. The GT edition offers more features and better pedals than its base variant, but at an increased cost. The Xbox equivalent to the T300RS is the Thrustmaster TX.

3. Fanatec CSL DD Ready2Race Bundle for PC (5Nm/8Nm)

Best Racing Wheel

Pros

• Very realistic Direct Drive force feedback
• Very competitive price
• Built-in LED display for telemetry
• Rubber grip on the wheel
• Tactile metal shifters
• Magnetic pedals
• Vast range of adjustability
• Silent

Cons

• Demands more from your wallet in order to get the best
• Only 2-pedal set in base package
• Might have to wait long for stock availability

Force Feedback: Direct Drive | Steering Wheel: Plastic body, Rubber grip and LED display for telemetry data | Pedal Board: 2 pedals | Rotation: 1080 degrees/Infinite if firmware lock is removed | Compatibility: Xbox Series S/X, Xbox One and PC | Warranty: 1 year

Check Price

Fanatec is renowned for its high-end, premium wheels that offer true-to-life driving. The Fanatec CSL DD Ready2Race bundle is a perfect example of this. The bundle comes with the CSL DD wheelbase, the CSL P1 V2 wheel and the CSL Pedals. Right now, at its current $400 price, it’s the cheapest direct drive wheel money can buy and, therefore, represents unbelievable value.

The star of the show—direct drive technology allows the steering wheel to connect directly to a motor inside the wheelbase without any belts or gears. This results in raw and undiluted output, providing a more realistic experience producing up to 8Nm of torque. This also makes the CSL DD virtually silent, apart from the occasional fan noise.

The included Fanatec CSL P1 V2 steering wheel is minimalistic and allows 1080 degrees of rotation—infinite if you disable the firmware lock. It has a rubber grip, is made out of durable plastic, and the LEDs display telemetry data. The buttons are also good enough for racing, though nothing revolutionary.

While there’s only a 2-pedal unit in the base package these are made entirely of metal, except the plastic caps. The pedals are premium; highly modifiable, responsive, produce the right amount of resistance and have magnetic hall-effect sensors that detect contact and help prevent degradation (stick drift) over time.

Currently, the bundle is in stock and ready to ship. But don’t count on this being the norm. Fanatec’s high-end, non-mass-produced nature often means longer wait times for shipping. And that’s not the worst part, your wallet might take a further hit even after you’ve secured this bundle.

The included pedal set has no clutch which is imperative to racing. The bundle also doesn’t come with any table clamps, that’s an extra $30 add-on unless you plan to hard mount it on a cockpit. And as the name suggests, it only works on PC and Xbox.

For PlayStation users, the Fanatec GT DD Pro, with Gran Turismo branding and a better wheel, is $200 more expensive but can work on Xbox too with a wheel swap. The GT DD Pro and CSL DD have identical function and performance, so PC users should stick with the latter for its better price.

Overall, despite these minor setbacks, the sheer value of the Fanatec CSL DD bundle is unparalleled by anything else on the market. Yes, the setup is not as convenient as Logitech or Thrustmaster options, but the quality of the driving experience is leagues above any gear or belt-driven offerings from those two. In our opinion, this is the starter wheel to buy (or invest into) regardless of your budget.

4. Logitech G923

The G29's Upgrade

Pros

• Ergonomic leather grip
• Great build quality
• TrueForce allows for more immersiveness
• Premium pedals
• Built-in LED lights for RPM display
• Dual-clutch system in supported games enhances gameplay experience
• Responsive aluminum paddle shifters

Cons

• Essentially the same as the G29/G920 in terms of looks and performance
• Noise generated from the gears can be too loud
• TrueForce is not as realistic as Logitech makes it out to be

Force Feedback: Gear driven TrueForce system | Rotation: 900 degrees | Warranty: 2 years limited hardware warranty | Steering Wheel: Aluminum build coated with ergonomic leather grip | Pedal Board: 3 pedals | Compatibility: PS5, PS4, Xbox Series X/S, Xbox One and PC

Check Price

The Logitech G923 is Logitech’s mid-tier wheel offering and serves as an upgrade and successor to the G29/G923. It has Xbox and PlayStation versions, both carrying identical features and looks, except for the button styles (ABXY on Xbox and △ O X on PlayStation).

The Logitech G923 has more modern and sleek design. The build quality is great and feels very premium. The pedals, in particular, are a slight upgrade but only in one aspect. The brake pedal has an improved progressive spring solution as opposed to the linear spring/rubber combination found in G29.

The paddle shifters, like the wheel, are made from aluminum. They produce satisfying clicks when pressed and are equally responsive. Apart from fact that the Xbox version of the G923 also has LEDs (G920 didn’t), the addition of Logitech’s TrueForce technology is the only thing that is truly original in this wheel.

TrueForce allows the wheel to vibrate in the same pattern as the audio frequencies found in-game. It allows for more immersion but causes the wheel to become more noisier than usual. The wheelbase is also able to produce a peak of about 2.2 Nm of torque so there isn’t any extra force feedback by default.

The force feedback is gear driven and especially clunky. Consequently, the clunky nature leads to noise being generated. Add TrueForce to the mix, and the noise becomes annoying. TrueForce can be switched off but the noise remains. Logitech’s claims that the force feedback is more realistic, but it only feels that way in certain supported games, otherwise it can be chalked up to just a marketing term.

Ultimately, the fatal flaw of the G923 is that it’s just a repackaged G29/G920. The performance, force feedback quality and its design; it’s all 99% identical to the G29/G920. Only the improved pedals, LED lights and TrueForce technology make it seem that the G923 is a new and different product.

If you’re looking to buy a G29/G920 right now, you should skip that and get the G923 instead. However, if you already own a G29/G920 and are looking for an upgrade or to try something different, we recommend that you skip this one.

5. Thrustmaster T150

Best Budget-Friendly Option

Pros

• Durable build
• Wallet-friendly
• Smooth force feedback which is perfect for beginners
• High-quality metal paddle shifters

Cons

• The pedals are of extremely low quality

Force Feedback: Belt and gear system | Rotation: 1080 degrees | Pedal Board: 2 pedals | Steering Wheel: Durable plastic build with rubberized grip areas | Warranty: 2 years | Compatibility: PS5, PS4, PS3 and PC

Check Price

The Thrustmaster T150 is a racing wheel built for PlayStation consoles but also works on PC. Employing a better motor system to provide smooth and realistic force feedback, responsive and high-quality paddle shifters, and a sturdy build, the T150 is the best option for newbies looking to get into racing sims, while having a tight budget.

The T150 generates around 2Nm of torque, similar to the Logitech G29. The force feedback uses a hybrid belt and gear system, and while the gear generates a sort of creaky feel, it’s easily tolerable. The wheel is made of highly durable plastic, has rubberized grip areas for the sake of ergonomics and offers 1080 degrees of rotation.

Unfortunately, like every other budget entry-level peripheral, the T150 has some flaws. In this case, the flaw rests in the pedal set. To say that the pedals look cheap and feel cheap while being used, would be modest. Entirely made of low-quality plastic, it’s a shame to see that a reputable brand like Thrustmaster skimped out on such an essential part of the T150 package.

Anyone that has used these default pedals will advise you to immediately replace them with the T3PA metal pedals that come in the T150 Pro package. As you would expect, the Pro package costs significantly more, as it includes a shifter too. Xbox users can opt for the Thrustmaster TMX, which is essentially the T150’s Xbox counterpart.

6. MOZA R5 Bundle

The Best Built Wheel

Pros

• Ergonomic leather grip
• Superior build quality
• Built-in configurable LED lights for telemetry data
• Compact wheel base
• Remappable buttons via software
• Very realistic force feedback
• Responsive aluminum paddle shifters

Cons

• More expensive than Fanatec CSL DD
• Brake pedal feels way too smooth
• No upgrade path for the wheelbase

Force Feedback: Direct Drive | Rotation: Infinite | Warranty: 2 years limited hardware warranty (for the wheel base), 1 year for pedals and steering wheel | Steering Wheel: Aluminum build coated with ergonomic leather grip | Pedal Board: 2 pedals | Compatibility: PC

Check Price

MOZA is a relatively new name in the sim racing market, but has quickly established itself as a direct competitor to Fanatec. Case in point, the MOZA R5 bundle serves as a counter to Fanatec’s CSL DD bundle, and is an excellent alternative to both the CSL and therefore the G29.

Armed with the next-gen Direct Drive force feedback technology and a wheelbase capable of producing up to 5.5Nm of torque, the R5 gives an authentic lifelike feel of driving a real racecar. The wheel base is compact, powerful and easy to set up. The steering wheel, with sturdy aluminum build which is coated with leather, has LED lights to convey telemetry-based data. It is also capable of infinite rotation.

The paddle shifters, while responsive and made from metal, are non-magnetic. The steering wheel has a button layout similar to that of a controller. The buttons feel great and there’s an abundance of them, too, 22 to be exact. You even get dedicated engine start/stop and radio buttons, though they’re all completely configurable.

The overall build quality of both the wheel and the wheelbase feels a bit better than the Fanatec CSL DD, the wheel in particular is sturdier than Fanatec’s offering and has no flex. The Quick Release system is also far superior on the MOZA as its fully-metal and much sturdier compared to Fanatec flimsy plastic system. But at $100 more expensive than the CSL DD, we expect this level of quality.

Moreover, the pedals are also metal and perform well. The only problem is the brake pedal, which offers nearly no resistance and is as smooth as the accelerator. According to Boosted Media’s review, they are perfect for being fast but leave a lot to be desired when it comes to accuracy and precision. Lastly, the R5 offers no way to upgrade the torque down the line so you’re stuck with the stock 5.5Nm.

At the end, choosing between the MOZA R5 and the Fanatec CSL DD should come down to availability and support. Which company is more present in your region in case you need after-sales support? The performance you’ll get out of either wheel will impress you so make your decision based on practicality.

How To Choose The Perfect Racing Wheel For You

Choosing the perfect racing wheel depends heavily on a variety of factors including your budget, your gaming setup, the games you intend to play, and your own personal preferences. Here are a few points to consider, select a tab to see its details:

• Compatibility
• Force Feedback
• Build Quality
• Pedals
• Rotation
• Budget

It is essential to ensure that the wheel you choose is compatible with your gaming setup, be it PlayStation, Xbox, or PC. Some racing wheels are only compatible with specific consoles or operating systems, while others can work on multiple platforms. If you’re someone who plans to switch back and forth between your PC and console, get a wheel that supports both. Otherwise, pretty much every wheel is compatible with PC by default.

This is a significant feature in a racing wheel that gives you the feeling of resistance and vibrations as you steer, simulating a real-life driving experience. High-quality force feedback can make a huge difference in terms of immersion, but it generally comes at a higher cost. Force feedback in measured in nanometers (Nm) of torque, with 2Nm being the minimum for a good experience.

The materials used in the construction of the wheel and pedals contribute to their durability and feel. A wheel with a metal frame and a leather-wrapped wheel (like the Logitech G29/920) will feel more authentic than a wheel made entirely of plastic. The quality of the pedals is equally important, as they are integral to the overall driving experience.

Check if the racing wheel comes with a pedal set. Some racing wheels only come with the wheel itself, which means you’ll need to buy pedals separately, adding to the total cost. If it does come with a pedal set, is it a 2-pedal or a 3-pedal set? The latter offers a more realistic (manual) driving experience with a clutch pedal. Also ensure there’s room for customization so you can tinker with mods down the line.

The rotation range of a racing wheel refers to how much the wheel can turn, and it varies widely from model to model. A wheel that can rotate 900 degrees will offer a more realistic driving experience than one that rotates 270 degrees, but it might also be more difficult to handle for beginners.

Last but certainly not least, your budget plays a significant role in deciding which racing wheel to choose. The best racing wheels with top-tier features and materials will cost you quite a bit. However, many budget options can give you a good racing experience without breaking the bank. In general, if you’re buying new then expect to spend somewhere between $250-400 on a solid budget option.

Conclusion

The Logitech G29 is a solid entry racing wheel, but today’s market offers alternatives that provide a better value. In the exhilarating world of sim racing, your choice of hardware can make the difference between a triumphant finish and a near miss—why not opt for the best value possible?

Delving into racing sims with dedicated hardware can be a significant investment (check GSI’s store to see what we mean). So, it’s worth your time to do a thorough research before committing to a purchase. Explore YouTube reviews, see threads on Reddit and RaceDepartment, and keep an eye on your local marketplace for potential deals on used wheels. Happy racing!

The post The Best Alternatives to Logitech G29 Racing Wheel in 2024 appeared first on Appuals.

Laptop is Not Turning On: Major Causes and Fixes

Many of you have been wondering what to do if your laptop will not switch on, so we have compiled a few solutions that have been effective in the past. If you need assistance starting your laptop, try one of the following.

1. Check the Power Supply/Adapter

A faulty power supply can often result in a laptop not turning on. There can be several reasons for it.

Sometimes, the charger’s cable or connector might be damaged or have loose connections (see examples). This can cause intermittent power supply where the power input to the laptop gets disconnected and reconnected frequently. This inconsistent power flow can prevent the laptop from powering on or lead to unexpected shutdowns while using it.

Another case is when you plug the charger into the laptop, it should provide a stable power input to charge the battery and run the laptop simultaneously. If the charger is faulty, it may not deliver the required power, or it may not provide any power at all. As a result, the laptop’s battery can drain completely, leading to a situation where there’s not enough power to boot the system.

It is worth noting that different systems would require different charging capabilities as well. Laptop chargers have specific power ratings (measured in watts or volts and amps) that must match the laptop’s power requirements. If the charger’s power output is too low for the laptop, it might not be sufficient to power the device. For example:

Laptop A:

• Charging Requirement: 19V, 3.42A
• Charger Type: Proprietary charger with a barrel-style connector

Laptop B:

• Charging Requirement: 20V, 2.25A
• Charger Type: USB Type-C Power Delivery (PD) charger

Note that both systems not only have different connectors but they also have different charging requirements.

For all these problems, the best solution is to replace the power supply after evaluating where the key issue lies.

Here are few ways

• Check the charging requirements of your laptop on its backside and buy a power supply or charger according to those.
• If you think that the power supply is fine, try changing the wire that connects between the laptop and the power supply.
• In case your power supply is totally damaged, or is overheating, it is best to replace the entire unit. One way to know this for sure is when you can see the colored wires within the black outer cover.

2. Check the Battery

Modern Li-ion and Li-poly batteries can handle around 300 to 500 charge cycles before their capacity starts to degrade significantly. On average, a well-maintained Li-ion battery can last anywhere from 2 to 4 years.

However, in certain cases, the battery health diminishes much faster, such as in the case of excessive usage, frequent deep discharges, using the laptop while charging, and other related reasons. In such a case, you can expect your laptop to have frequent shutdowns, problems with turning on, and sometimes not turning on at all!

If this happens, your system will automatically prompt you that you need to change the battery. We recommend purchasing battery from the manufacturer rather than going for after-market batteries.

3. Check the Display

There are chances that your laptop is turning on but the display is faulty which is why you might be thinking that the laptop is not switched on.

Try turning up the brightness for starters just in case. If increasing the brightness doesn’t work and you can barely see some content on the screen, it’s possible that the backlight behind the display is malfunctioning.

In this case, you may still see faint images on the screen or even a complete blackout. Backlight issues can be caused by a faulty inverter or a damaged backlight. Unless you have an OLED display in your laptop, every screen has a backlight that can die down over time, failing to provide any brightness to the screen.

Another issue related to malfunctioning display can be the display cable itself. The display cable connecting the screen to the laptop’s motherboard might have come loose or gotten damaged.

If you have expertise in handling hardware, you can try to open the laptop and check if the display cable is securely connected. Otherwise, have it checked with a professional.

4. Remove Memory Cards and External Devices

If the power and display seem OK, your machine may be getting stuck before Windows launches. The typical problem is a USB drive or memory card that was left in a computer’s port or reader. Seeing a notice like “Operating System Not Found” is a common issue and should not cause undue alarm. Your laptop can suddenly turn off if such happens.

In most cases, this implies that the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) is configured to first attempt booting from external storage media, such as a card, rather than the primary hard drive.

After disconnecting all external devices, try powering on your laptop using the button on the side. If it boots properly, then you know the issue is not with the laptop itself but with an external disk or device.

To find out what occurs, you should restart the laptop while connecting just one device at a time. You can keep trying until you identify the faulty piece of equipment.

5. Hard Reset the Laptop (Applicable for Macbook too)

If your laptop’s keyboard lights up but there is no screen or sign of life from the CPU, a reset may be in order. If you want your laptop to start fresh and give you accurate readings, you can “Hard Reset” the machine by completely disabling its power supply. A hard reset only relates to hardware reset and there is no impact on software or data of the users.

You can perform Hard Reset via the following steps

1. Press and hold the power button for 10 seconds (or until the hard disk makes a clunking noise). “This action completely disables the laptop’s power supply.
2. If your laptop has a removable battery, carefully take it out from the bottom of the laptop. This step is to ensure there is no power left inside the laptop. If you cannot get to the battery, such as in the case of a Macbook, try pressing and holding the power button for 30 seconds; this will have the same effect.
3. After removing the battery, press and hold the laptop’s power button once more for around 10-30 seconds. This step helps to drain any remaining power or electricity left in the laptop’s components.
4. Connect the battery and power on your laptop once again.

In case your battery isn’t removable, just press the power button for 30 seconds and leave the laptop as it is for 5 minutes. Then, restart the system.

This issue occurred with me personally. My laptop was perfectly fine and everything was good with the display, battery, and power supply but it still wouldn’t start. Performing the hard reset solved the issue. Later, I came to know that it can occur due to a glitch that’s causing disturbances with the hardware as well as the software of the system causing the startup to malfunction.

6. Check Overheating Issue

Knowing how much your system can handle can simplify many situations. Knowing the limits of your equipment is important since exceeding them can cause overheating and other problems. Overheating can cause real issues inside your laptop and even lead to permanent damage if not taken seriously. Thankfully, modern devices thermal throttle before they ever burn themselves out.

So, in this case, the best course of action is to, do nothing. Just wait for your laptop to catch its breath, especially if it’s a dated model. However, if it still overheats continually without you forcing anything, it might be time for internal servicing.

In more serious situations, your CPU might need repasting in order to retain proper thermal contact with the cooling system. Only open up the laptop to check and do all this yourself if you’re aware of the technicalities, otherwise get it checked by a professional.

7. Clean the cooling vents

Having blocked cooling vents is the most likely cause of the problem on a gaming laptop. This can occur for a variety of causes, including dust. The inability to switch on your laptop is fixed by frequently cleaning and inspecting the cooling vents to ensure they are dissipating heat as they should.

Open vents for air intake are essential. Verify the efficiency of these air outlets. Check your laptop’s fans and vents for dust that might be clogging airflow. The best solution is to go for a complete service of the laptop but you can easily DIY with a YouTube tutorial as long as you have basic tech knowledge.

8. Boot in Safe Mode

Sometimes a piece of software can interfere with Windows and breaks the booting process. If your laptop or computer will not boot normally, entering safe mode can allow you to roll back the modifications that created the problem.

Follow our comprehensive guide on how to boot into safe mode. If you get inside, ensure that all your drivers are up to date and you haven’t installed anything new recently which might be causing the issue. Run an antivirus check in the meantime as well just to be on the safe side (pun very much intended).

Keep in mind that sometimes, the software in the system might not be the issue. You should then resort to installing a new copy Windows in your system.

9. Booting Problems

Using a rescue disk or USB device can be helpful when other solutions have been unsuccessful in resolving a laptop’s booting issues. If your laptop gets till the point where it shows you a logo but fails to boot from that point onwards, try out this step.

A rescue disk or USB contains a separate operating system that allows you to boot into an environment independent of the laptop’s installed operating system.

This can be particularly useful when dealing with malware infections or critical system errors that prevent the laptop from starting up properly. Here’s how you can use a rescue disk:

Step 1: Obtain a Rescue Disk Image

Download a rescue disc image from a reputable source, preferably from an antivirus company such as Kaspersky or another trusted software provider.

Step 2: Create a Rescue Disk or USB

Using another functional computer, burn the ISO file onto a blank CD or DVD to create a rescue disc. Alternatively, you can use a tool like Rufus to create a bootable USB flash drive from the rescue disc image.

Step 3: Boot from the Rescue Disk or USB

With the rescue disk or USB ready, insert it into the affected laptop’s CD/DVD drive or USB port. Then, Power on the laptop and access the boot menu or BIOS settings. This is usually done by pressing F12 during startup.

In the boot menu or BIOS settings, choose the rescue disk or USB as the primary boot device. This will enable the laptop to boot into the rescue environment instead of its installed operating system.

Step 4: Scan and Repair

Once booted into the rescue environment, use the provided antivirus tools to scan the laptop’s hard drive for malware or viruses. If any infections are detected, the antivirus software can attempt to remove or quarantine them.

Besides malware scanning, rescue disks often come with various diagnostic and repair tools. Use these tools to fix system errors, recover data, or perform other troubleshooting steps to address the booting issues.

Step 5: Remove the Rescue Disk or USB and Reboot

After completing the necessary scans and repairs, remove the rescue disk or USB and restart the laptop. Ideally, the laptop should now boot into its normal operating system without any issues.

10. Problems with BIOS/UEFI Settings

BIOS and UEFI are essential firmware interfaces that manage your computer’s hardware during startup. If these settings are incorrect, it can lead to booting problems, which can be quite frustrating. But don’t worry, you have one last option to try before diving into more complicated solutions.

You can perform a BIOS/UEFI reset to restore all settings to their default values. Look for an option like “Load Optimized Defaults” or “Reset to Default Settings” in the BIOS/UEFI and simply follow the on-screen instructions. This often resolves most booting problems, so it’s worth a shot.

However, keep in mind that tinkering with BIOS settings can be quite tricky and is not recommended for those unfamiliar with technical aspects. So, proceed with caution. If you’re uncertain about making changes in the BIOS, it’s best to seek help from an experienced professional.

Also, remember to check the laptop manufacturer’s website for any available BIOS/UEFI firmware updates. These updates can address compatibility issues and enhance the overall stability of your system.

Conclusion

If your laptop still won’t turn on after following our troubleshooting guide, it could be due to a faulty hardware component or a more complex issue. Attempting to fix it on your own may not be the best option, as it could lead to further problems or void your warranty.

We recommend taking your laptop to a professional technician for proper diagnosis and repairs. They have the expertise and tools to identify and resolve the problem efficiently, getting your laptop back to working condition in no time.

The post 10 Guaranteed Fixes For When Your Laptop is Not Turning On appeared first on Appuals.

Even proprietary charging standards from the likes of OnePlus, Xiaomi, and Apple cannot compete with the sheer universality of USB-PD. That being said, there are levels to USB-PD and not every device that supports it supports the same type of Power Delivery. So, let’s break it all down and see how USB-PD works.

How Does USB PD Work?

If you have a newer smartphone, you may have noticed that it charges much faster than older models. This is most likely due to USB-PD, and its ability to configure its voltage output, unlike legacy protocols.

Now, you may already know about USB which is the most common type of communications protocol, but as far as power was concerned, USB Battery Charging, the tech preceding USB-PD, lacked behind when compared to other standards. Also, with time, we needed a way to charge our devices faster, more safely, and more efficiently. That’s where USB Power Delivery came into play.

To understand this concept, you first need to know what Power is.

In the simplest of terms, Power is Current x Voltage supplied (P=IV), and so, with PD, the values for current and voltage are adjusted to deliver the amount required. This ‘amount required’ is determined by negotiating the power delivery between the charger and the device.

The charger will start by sending a low-power signal to the device. The device will respond with its maximum power capability. The charger will then adjust its output voltage and current to match the device’s requirements.

This is done to make sure that the charging process continues safely, and there aren’t any sorts of compatibility issues.

For a rough estimate, you phone probably charges at over at least 15W if it does support any sorts of fast charging technology. USB Battery charging, on the other hand, only supports, at most delivering 5V and 0.9A, which amounts to roughly 4.5W of power.

This is also why commonly uses USB Type-C instead of Type-A, or Micro USB, as it can go up to 3A, with 5V, or alternatively can use 1.5A with the same voltage. With PD, your device (if supported), can go as high as 240W!

Now that you’re up to speed with how USB-PD works (), check out our article on how to identify USB ports by their symbols.

The Role of USB Type-C in USB PD

USB PD and USB Type-C are often confused with each other or used interchangeably, but they’re actually two different technologies. USB PD is a protocol that allows devices to negotiate the amount of power they need, while USB Type-C is just a connector standard used to facilitate USB-PD.

So, while USB PD utilizes USB Type-C, not all USB Type-C connectors will support USB PD. This means that if you want to take advantage of the fast-charging speeds that USB PD offers, you will need to make sure that your device and charger both support USB PD.

On the other hand, USB Type-C has the ability to reverse-charge, meaning it can send signals both ways. This makes it even more practical, as you can use it to power your portable SSD via your phone, or even charge your phone by connecting it to another phone. Though, there are other caveats at play here, such as the manufacturer locking down certain abilities of USB-PD, so your mileage may vary.

Types of USB PD

As a standard, USB-PD has rapidly evolved to enable quick and efficient charging of devices. However, it’s important to note that not all devices implement PD in the same way, hence the introduction of several revisions over the years.

USB PD 1.0 was a game-changer in that it could deliver power up to 100W (20V at 5A), a considerable leap over traditional USB power specifications. The power level was determined through a negotiation process between the device and the charger, not tied to specific values of voltage and current as previously implied.

The advancements in USB PD 2.0 and 3.0 were mainly around the realm of power management features. They provided more detailed information about the device being charged, such as reporting if the battery temperature is too high, or if the voltage or current exceeds the expected levels. These enhancements greatly contributed to both the safety and efficiency of charging.

Despite this, the effectiveness of these revisions depends on the compatibility of your device and charger. While it’s true that the full advantages of a specific PD revision can only be utilized if both the device and charger support that revision, USB PD is designed with backward compatibility in mind.

This means a device with PD 3.0, for example, can still be charged with a PD 2.0 or 1.0 charger, albeit without the additional power management features introduced in the later revisions.

USB Programmable Power Supply (USB PPS)

Remember how we discussed that USB PD utilizes a set of specific voltage levels? Traditionally, these have been at 5V, 9V, 15V, and 20V, contributing to common charging rates seen in devices such as 18W or 30W. But what if your device’s optimal charging speed is something in between these, say 44W?

In the past, with USB PD 2.0, you would be limited by the fixed voltage levels, meaning your 44W device might only charge at a lower rate. However, with the advent of Programmable Power Supply (PPS) introduced in USB PD 3.0, this scenario drastically changed. PPS enables granular control over voltage and current delivery, allowing adjustments down to 20mV and 50mA steps respectively. This precise control means that almost any charging rate within a device’s capabilities can be accurately supported by the charger.

Widespread adoption of USB PD with PPS could significantly streamline our charging solutions. The primary goal of USB PD is to enhance charging efficiency while minimizing electronic waste. By leveraging the PPS feature, a single charger could optimally power a diverse range of devices up to their maximum capabilities, reducing the need for multiple device-specific chargers.

Benefits of USB PD

So, what is it that makes USB PD a far superior choice than any of the other standards?

1. Higher Power Levels: USB-PD can deliver up to 240W of power, allowing it to charge even power-intensive devices like laptops and gaming consoles efficiently.
2. Flexible Power Adjustment with PPS: The Programmable Power Supply (PPS) feature allows the device being powered to request intermediate voltages between 15V and up to the maximum available fixed voltage of the charger. This flexibility makes sure that the device receives the right amount of voltage for efficient charging, while simultaneously maximizing the charging speed and minimizing heat generation.
3. Introduction of New Voltages in USB PD 3.0: USB PD 3.0 adds new fixed voltages such as 28V, 36V, and 48V, which provide up to 140W, 180W, and 240W of power, respectively. Though these levels aren’t applicable to mobile devices, they cater to high power-demand devices.
4. Bi-directional Power Flow: USB PD supports bidirectional power, meaning that devices can both receive and provide power. This capability allows, for instance, a laptop to charge a smartphone via a USB Type-C cable from the same port that it itself can be charged from.
5. Intelligent Power Management: USB PD enables each device to draw only the power it needs, optimizing power usage and preventing potential damage to devices.
6. Broad Application Range: USB PD is not limited to high-power devices. It can also accommodate low-power devices like headsets. The key advantage here is the universal application, eliminating the need for separate chargers for each device, as long as they support USB PD. This has a positive impact on the environment and reduces your carbon footprint.

Why Have Companies Stopped Going for Ultra-Fast Charging Technologies

Phone companies are consistently pushing the limits of charging speeds for their devices. It seems like every other week, there’s a new phone on the market that promises to charge from zero to full in mere minutes.

Xiaomi is leading this charge, boasting 67W and 120W charging speeds for their devices. Oppo, on the other hand, is pushing the envelope even further with charging capabilities exceeding 200W. While these high speeds might seem like a win in terms of time efficiency, there’s a hidden trade-off between battery lifespan and charging speed.

Research and practice have shown that charging at extremely high speeds can lead to faster battery degradation over time. As a result, many companies have found a middle ground around the 50W mark. This charging speed is fast enough to power a device for the day quickly, but it’s also slow enough to minimize long-term damage to the battery.

For instance, the new Nothing Phone (2) has 45W fast charging, same goes for the Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra. The latest iPhone 14 Pro series can do up to 35W on the other hand, but Apple has never been known to push the envelope in this department to begin with.

Similarity in Charging Speeds

As hinted at before, have you ever wondered why charging speeds for most smartphones seem to follow specific increments, such as 15W, 18W, 30W, or 45W, rather than randomly varied figures like 17W or 19W? This pattern stems primarily from the USB Power Delivery (USB PD) protocol, which operates at designated power levels defined by certain fixed voltages and currents.

However, keep in mind that the actual charging speed attainable is limited by the specific power levels supported by both your device and your charger.

Environment Impact

At the moment, there are currently dozens of different USB charging standards in use, each with its own proprietary connector and power delivery protocol. This fragmentation makes it difficult for consumers to use with different devices (for example, your Samsung Super Fast Charge won’t work with a phone supporting Oppo’s Super VOOC), and it also leads to a lot of e-waste. Just take a look at the differences down below:

Now, imagine you could do all of this with a single PD charger. After all, it is capable of delivering all sorts of power increments listed in the table.

USB PD is also backward compatible with older USB standards, so you can use it with devices that don’t explicitly support it. Think of how much resources, e-waste, and money can be saved if you had one charger for all.

Unfortunately, companies are not willing to give up profits so easily. Even Apple, the world’s largest company, has removed the charger from the box of the iPhone years ago, claiming to be an advocate of environmental friendliness.

However, rumors suggest that the iPhone 15, which will use Type-C, will only work with Apple’s own MFi-certified chargers (Made for iPhone). This would create more e-waste and shows the bad side of such clever marketing tactics.

USB PD is slowly but surely being adopted by a wider range of manufacturers. We hope that this trend continues, and USB PD eventually becomes the industry standard in the coming years.

The post What is USB Power Delivery? USB-PD & Its Types Explained appeared first on Appuals.